Author: Lumie
-
[Chanel 26P RTW Preview] A Season That Refines, Yet Asks to Be Judged Later
The Chanel 26P collection, launching in January 2026, presents a season that is undeniably refined.Compared to the 26S runway, it leans more deliberately toward wearability and broader appeal, while retaining—at least in part—Chanel’s long-standing strength: a structure that accommodates changing bodies with quiet flexibility. What feels noticeably restrained, however, is the tactile density traditionally associated…
-
[Chanel 25 Mini Bag] Proportion, Body Balance, and a Structural Comparison with the Hermès Lindy Mini
It arrived quietly—but this time, it may signal a genuine shift. The 25 Mini Bag from Chanel’s 2026 Cruise collection feels less like a seasonal novelty and more like a structural statement. Rather than reiterating the House’s established classics, the 25 line subtly dismantles the visual codes of the flap bag and rebuilds them into…
-
[Dior Book Tote 26SS] Jonathan Anderson’s Garden, Written on the Surface
The Dior Book Tote has never tried to be discreet.From the beginning, it was less about function and more about surface—a canvas where the house could decide what deserves to be seen. For Spring/Summer 2026, that surface becomes a garden.Not a sentimental one, but a constructed one. Vines establish structure.Lily of the valley leaves traces…
-
[Van Cleef & Arpels] Flowerlace in Yellow Gold : When a Flower Is Built, Not Decorated
The flower has always been one of the most fundamental languages of Van Cleef & Arpels.If Alhambra functions as a symbol—almost a graphic sign—Flowerlace belongs to a different register altogether. It does not signify. It forms. The newly introduced Flowerlace Yellow Gold collection marks a quiet but meaningful shift. Rather than extending the maison’s traditional…
-
[Celine Summer 2026] Michael Rider and the Return of Rhythmic Line
At Paris Fashion Week, Celine presented its Summer 2026 collection under the direction of Michael Rider—a season that read less as reinvention than as recalibration. After the sharply linear, emotionally cool era shaped by Hedi Slimane, Rider’s first summer season felt like a deliberate act of restoration. What returned was not trend, but rhythm: the…
-
[Saint Laurent 26SS] At the Edge of Restraint and Excess
Reflective leather, architectural shoulders, and a runway flooded with white flowers.Saint Laurent’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection resisted spectacle in favor of form—its authority, its tension, and its contradictions. Leather reaffirmed its centrality to the house, while voluminous, petal-like dresses opened an opposing narrative. What unfolded was not a clash, but a calibrated tension between strength and…
-
[Cartier Love Unlimited] When an Icon Learns to Flow
Cartier has always understood the power of ritual.For decades, the Love bracelet was not merely worn—it was performed.The screwdriver, the tightening of screws, the deliberate act of locking something in place. Love, in this language, was firm, sealed, and intentional. Love Unlimited marks a subtle but meaningful shift in that narrative. This is not a…
-
[Miu Miu 26SS] The Apron as Origin: When the Ordinary Becomes a New Aesthetic
At Paris Fashion Week, Miu Miu staged a quiet return—to reality. Spring/Summer 2026 did not seek spectacle. Instead, it turned deliberately toward the forms we encounter every day: aprons, cotton dresses, shirts, canvas, leather worn close to the body. What once signified labor and care was reframed as protection; what was practical became emotional language.…
-
[Bottega Veneta 26SS] Louise Trotter’s First Chapter: Tradition, Rewritten with Restraint
At Milan Fashion Week, Bottega Veneta opened a new chapter.Spring/Summer 2026 marked the debut of its new creative director, Louise Trotter—and with it, a measured recalibration rather than a dramatic reset. There were no declarations, no abrupt breaks.Instead, the collection unfolded as a quiet negotiation between heritage and renewal: intrecciato leather as the constant, structure…
-
[Tiffany Knot Collection] Tension, Structure, and the Age of Choosing Form
When I first encountered the Tiffany Knot collection, my reaction was unexpectedly honest. Had I been a few years younger, I might have bought it without hesitation. Knot is not a ribbon softened by sentiment.It is a ribbon translated into metal—held in place by tension rather than tenderness. This review examines the Tiffany Knot collection…